My Friend, Alexei Bolotov, Gone

Alexei & Don, July 2010

Many events have transpired since my last dispatch, but the most important at hand is the death of my friend and climbing partner Alexei Bolotov yesterday. I feel that far more appropriate words can be written about Alexei than I am capable of right now- my fingers simply hover over the keyboard with tears and disbelief- but… Read More



Control on the Mountain

Advanced Base Camp on Makalu, 18,700 ft., 5700m

When all the training has been logged, when all the gear and food and equipment have been gathered, when you’ve said goodbye to your family and friends, get on the plane, travel for days through a foreign culture, you finally get to the mountain. There you unpack your gear, spend a few sleepless nights acclimatizing… Read More



The Trip in to Makalu Base Camp, Part 2

"Spaz" the rock star and future greeter of Lukla

After the crazy flight to Lukla I grabbed my bags and headed to the uniquely named Himalayan Hotel. Inside, the rooms and accommodations were more than comfortable, and the dining hall was surprisingly large with beautiful decorations and gabled ceilings. I spent the day sending emails and utilizing the last wifi I’d see for a… Read More



Success and Tragedy

Before I resume with my tales of travel to Makalu, I need to report a couple of things here at advanced base camp. I am currently sharing camp with 9 other climbers from various countries around the globe. I am climbing independently of this group, as most of the others arrived very early this year… Read More



The trip into Makalu…Part 1

My bags waiting for the flight to Lukla via the toilet!

My trip into Makalu advanced base camp has been quite the whirlwind tour so far. Here’s Part 1 of the journey: I drove from Bishop to Los Angeles on the 12th of April – thanks to my friend Jason Crockett and his comfy SUV. I then flew to Tokyo on the 13th -  Singapore on… Read More



High altitude acclimatization and prepping for Makalu

I plan to head back to Nepal twice in 2013, for both the spring and fall climbing seasons. My first expedition departs on April 13th for Makalu- the 5th highest mountain on earth. I’ll be on the regular route, climbing alone again. I don’t think it’s fair to say I’ll be climbing  ”solo” since most… Read More



New Video: My idea of a hard training day…

  Check out my new video of a big day training for the Himalayas, filmed during a one day ascent of Mount Whitney (14,505ft), the highest point in the contiguous United States – by starting from the lowest point in Badwater, Death Valley (282ft below sea level)   Big Training Day with Don Bowie, High… Read More



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